Here is her smiling face! Can’t you see yourself out this summer sport-touring on the cheap and super-fast?!
This comes with her special friend: M.U.T.T.. That’s the monster under the tank. Wherever you and her go, MUTT follows. MUTT gives you just aboutONE HUNDRED HORSEPOWER; With the pleasantness and affection of any good mutt.
If you are interested in a Connie, then you already did your home work. So did I. Save yourself some time and money and start here and start riding now!
Carbs 1, 3, and 4 have synchronizing screws. They let you synchronize the throttle plates. That is a “bench synchronization”. When I did so, carb 3 would not stay adjusted correctly. It kept slipping out of alignment.
I couldn’t find a throttle plate rod for the carburetor on ebay. I couldn’t even find the part on the microfiche. A kind soul sent me the link for that part though, used, on ebay. The search term is “carb linkage assembly”. Another kind soul explained that some of the carburetors on the ’79 CB750F were recalled and maybe half the bikes got the work done. He went on to explain that the carburetors were very different between ’79 and ’80-’83, and even more, that the carburetors were very different between the supersport and the classic. Great to know; great to know. Those should be here soon. The other option presented was to weld some steel in there and tap out a new thread. That may still happen, we’ll see.
The next project is to rebuild the front suspension.
When observing the bike from the RH side, rotate the center cable mechanism CW so the carbs are at full throttle. This will bring the “pull” cable access “notch” so it faces the rear of the bike, and more accessible from the top. During the time you are rotating the mechanism, pay attention to the individual carb linkages and you will see a gap form between a stop and a section of the linkage. When the carbs are at full throttle, find a suitable flat blade screw driver and wedge it in this gap to hold the carbs open once you’ve released the cable mechanism. This will give you ample time to fiddle with getting the cable end in the hole and engaged. A pair of long, long-nosed needle nose pliers, or a long hemostat works best in getting the cable end in place.
use butt connectors, ring terminals, and spade clips ad a good crimper. Before crimping, I’ll coat the wire end and the connector with a dielectric paste, avoiding silicon sealer, as it can shrink and allow moisture in. A layer of heat-shrink tubing guarantees a water tight worry free connection.